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I'm so glad I can help! Yeah, I love Super Sap, I'm glad you tried it and like it as well :)

Hey!! thanks so much, I think of you quite often, since I took your suggestion and switched to plastic stir sticks! yeah... these results shocked me. I didn't expect that at all. I know i carry on about Super Sap A LOT, but it really is just a fantastic product. Even years later, it hardly yellows.

Hello! At what point did it get cloudy? Sometimes when the liquid resin gets very cold, it can be cloudy, but tends to clear up when mixed with the hardener. If your hardened pieces are cloudy, but cured properly, I'm not sure what could have happened. If you'd like, you can email me photos of what you're talking about, marinasharp13@gmail.com

Glad it was helpful :)

You can weigh it if you know the proper measurements. Some companies will give you the "by weight" measurements as well as the "by volume" ones. But just because something is a 1 to 1 ratio by volume doesn't mean it will be a 1:1 by weight. Some products will be the same measurements by volume and weight (like liquid diamonds) but not all of them will. The liquids have different densities and some formulas are just meant to be measured by volume. I was going to measure by weight in my "Counter culture DIY" review, but when I messaged the company asking the by volume measurement was also the by weight measurement, they told me that the product is only meant to be measured by volume. I'd suggest reaching out to the company of the product you'd like to use and asking them about measuring by weight :) And yes, eyeballing it isn't a good idea!! I'll get comments in which people tell me that they just "eyeball the product and it's fine" and it makes me cringe. Why not just a take a few extra minutes to do it right, ugh. I appreciate that you want to be as accurate as possible :)

www.alumilite.com/resins/amazing-clear-cast/

there's this one too, it's more UV resistant (yellows less.) I ordered some and I'm doing to do a demo and review soon www.alumilite.com/resins/amazing-clear-cast-plus/

Hello! You can be in a well ventilated area and it will be okay. It would be a good call to look for resins that say "no VOC's" and "low odor." If you find you have sensitivities to the products, you'll need a respirator, but if you don't, you should be fine. By sensitivities, I mean if you get a headache, feel dizzy, get a rash, etc. None of those things have ever happened to me, but people are different, ya know?

I'm so glad this video was helpful :) Sooo, you only need a UV lamp for UV resin, the UV light is how UV resin cures. You don't need that for 2 part resins though, they cure by a heat/chemical reaction. You mix them, leave them for about 24 hours (sometimes more, sometimes less, depending on the formula) and they harden on their own. I wouldn't use a heat lamp on the 2 part resins though. UV resin is a 1 part resin, there's no mixing or measuring involved, you just put the liquid under the light and it cures it. The kits with 2 bottles are a different type. Heat will cause the resin to cure faster, but I've read that too much heat can also speed up yellowing of the resin (all resin yellows to some degree, eventually.) I don't know how true that is, but yeah, I'd just let the product take it's natural course, time-wise. Sometimes in the summer, I'll put my pieces in the garage where it's hotter than in the house to speed up the process, but it get's like 95 degrees in there, max. A heat lamp would be much hotter, possibly too hot.

Thank you so much for quick and very helpful reply!

Hello! So I think I know what you're saying, but can you email me with photos of your project? If i can see it, I can be more help :) my email is marinasharp13@gmail.com

The trick is to not get too close to the mold. Some molds are very high quality silicone and are not affected by the heat, but for lower quality ones, you just keep the torch around 6 inches away from the resin/mold. You can also just use a lighter. If you get super close to the mold and just blast it with the torch, yes you can ruin things. If you swipe the flame over the project from a distance it won't be a problem. Plenty of resin companies suggest using a torch to remove bubbles, but yeah, common sense needs to be used . If you hold a flame in one place, too close for too long, things can get messy.

Thanks for watching! Yes you can use a lighter to remove the bubbles, but it will only pop the ones on the surface, not the ones deeper into the resin

I'm excited for you! Hmm, I'm not sure about that, you're honestly going to have to experiment, but i feel like it should be ok. Can you give me the link to the dye? I'd love to look into it

Maricruz Ceniceros I also bought the same clear cast resin and some dyes from amazon and I have experimented making some earrings and the color dye works really well. Nothing to worry about (:

thanks for sharing your experience :D

It's a hard plastic. I guess under extreme stress, it could break. I can't imagine there's a way to repair it, but I'm not really sure.

Do what works for you, always. But to elaborate more, I pour into the same cup all the time (and have for years now) and if I end up putting too much hardener, I'll even suck some of it back out with the squeeze bottle top and it's never tainted the product. When it's just one layer sitting on another like that, the only place the resin and hardener are interacting yet are right at the line where the layers meet. The hardener at the top is nowhere touching the resin. If the product was mixed, it would be a different story. but where one layer has just been sitting on another layer for 5 seconds, there hasn't been any chemical interaction yet up at the top where I'm removing the extra hardener.. But yeah, do what works for you, if you're worried, do what you feel comfortable with

Some companies will suggest to pour the hardener first, but I've always poured the resin first and since that's what I'm used to, I don't change that .

I'm not sure, but you can most likely contact the company and ask.

You can, but I'd go with something higher quality, this stuff tends to yellow a good amount over time. Art Resin is specifically for pouring onto canvas, and I think counter culture DIY makes a product that's meant for thin pours (over canvas, tumblers, etc.) and they yellow way less. This may be a good product to practice with though if you're a beginner, it's much cheaper than the other brands I just mentioned. Just to get the feel for mixing and measuring and stuff.

Hello! I'm really not sure, that's a good question. Are your finished pieces completely cured/hardened?

@@MarinaSharp yes. I do the nail trick after a day or two after curing and they are solid and hard. I do the marker trick on my measuring cups and swirl it over the fill line to get a true measure and no matter what, I seem to be left with at least 2 ounces of part b.

Gotcha. If the pieces are curing correctly, I wouldn't worry too much. I've had a similar thing happen to me with liquid 2 part silicones, I tend to have some side b leftover. The molds always cure properly, so I don't really worry about it. It is a bit odd though, for sure

Yes, especially when it's a 1:1 ratio and the bottles are the same size lol. I just feel it's a waste. They should sell small bottles of each separately so that you can get more of one or the other so you don't waste as much

Dang, that's a good question. I think I'd get cheap phone cases and try it both ways. Sorry if that didn't help lol, but with this stuff, it's all going to come down to experimenting to see what works. I feel like I'd try inside of the case first to see how I feel about it, and THEN I'd try another case and put everything on the outside

@@MarinaSharp thankyouuu🥺❣️

@@MarinaSharp They shipped kinda fast. I ended up getting the liquid cast deep pour epoxy and the liquid stone ultra uv epoxy. I ordered the deep pour one by mistake, instead of cancelling the order I just ended up purchasing the liquid stone uv. When I warm up the bottles in a warm bath, is it only when mixed together that the work time gets shorter, or the entire bottles shelf life gets shorter? Not sure if my question makes sense jeje. The deep pour epoxy is gonna have to stay in the box for now, that seems to advanced for me!!

You can do whatever you want, I'd just rather not overheat the product. When companies do suggest you heat the resin, the instructions usually say warm and not hot.

I'm reading the FAQ for a new product I'm going to test out, and it says to use hot water, so yeah, do whatever. www.ksresin.com/pages/instructions

Thank you so much for the info!! God bless

no prob :)

It can be any glitter. I'm really sorry for your loss. I'm sure you've already heard that a million times, and the word may even sound a bit "hollow" or meaningless. I think the truth is that there is no good thing to say in these situations, ya know?

Thanks for watching😀 sometimes I'll dip a toothpick in more resin and run it along the sanded sides and let it cure, but I honestly tend to use clear spray paint more. I spray a little puddle of clear spray paint, dip a tooth pick in it, and run along the sides. Or I'll put on a glove and dip my finger into a bit of clear spray paint and dab it on the edges. I use spray paint on resin a lot though, and I don't think that's really a normal thing most people do, I was working with spray paint a lot before I got into working with resin, so I kind of just merged some concepts. I think the best course of action for others would be to just dip a tooth pick in more resin and run along the sanded sides, and let it harden.

@@MarinaSharp That makes sense. I hadn't thought of using a tooth pick. Great suggestion! Thank you! 👍